“It protects us from mechanical injury, low humidity, cold, heat, sun, wind, chemical exposure, bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other pathogens,” explains board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., stating that, “a healthy barrier is critical to normal skin function.” Supporting your skin barrier isn’t just superficial either: It has repercussions for overall health, too. Board-certified dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., points to the results of a 2019 study delineating the link between skin dysfunction and various health conditions caused by chronic inflammation. In the study, researchers connected the use of barrier repair moisturizers with reduced pro-inflammatory cytokines in the blood, highlighting the importance of the skin’s protective role in our overall health: Namely, that poor barrier function is linked to inflammation that can trigger internal health conditions. “In patients with atopic dermatitis and other inflammatory conditions, external microbes are a huge source of flares, so I look for ingredients that can balance the skin flora,” Turegano says. “By having healthy bacteria on the skin, the bad pathogens are less likely to take over and cause inflammation.” And as biotic supplements have surged in popularity, so have biotic skin care lines. “Products that support healthy and diverse skin microbiota are also beneficial to the skin barrier,” King shares, explaining you should look for both pre-, pro- and postbiotic skin care products. Thanks to the surge of research about the skin microbiome, sophisticated biome-supporting technologies have emerged. And like most skin care items, not all formulas are created equal: For example, many probiotic strains aren’t able to survive in topical formulas (thanks to preservative system), so be sure to use brands that have evidence their technologies are able to support live organisms. If you’d rather skip that entirely, postbiotics are a cutting edge area of development, in which researchers are able to identify key outputs (like very specific peptides and fatty acids) from live bacteria strains on the skin, the replicate them for topical application. Or if you’re a do-it-at-home sort of beauty fan, it can also be found in fermented foods like yogurt, if you want to DIY a mask for yourself. “Ceramides are fatty molecules that make up the natural skin barrier and help to retain moisture,” elaborates Marisa Garshick, M.D., FAAD. “Specifically, ceramides serve as the glue that helps keep the skin cells together.” It is the integrity of these cellular components that determine barrier function. Research shows that when applied topically, phytoceramides dramatically improved the rate of repair of a damaged stratum corneum2 (top skin layer). Additionally, most derms also encourage you to consume them: “You need to be consuming sufficient amounts of healthy fats, which can be obtained from the diet,” says King. Salmon is one of the most popular fatty fishes recommended by dermatologists; omega-3 fatty acids can also be supplemented in fish oil or fish oil capsule form. Turegano adds that nuts—particularly almonds and walnuts—are especially beneficial nuts to incorporate for the skin. Topically, use humectants first, followed by an occlusive cream or oil—this will speed up the repair of any compromised skin barrier. You can also look for hyaluronic acid supplements, which have been shown to retain skin moisture at the cellular level. Not only is HA responsible for keeping skin looking healthy and hydrated, but it is integral to our body’s healing process4. When we’re hurt, our bodies actually produce more hyaluronic acid, the synthesis of which increases during tissue injury and wound healing5. As for oat oil, it can help with barrier protection as well—in addition to supporting natural ceramide levels. It has been known to boost ceramide levels in the skin, which help to keep skin cells together.
