For starters, the mixtures themselves are completely different. Sugaring paste is made from 100% natural ingredients—sugar, lemon, and water. The gloop is able to penetrate the hair follicle and adhere to individual hairs before removing them at the root. Wax, on the other hand, is often a mixture of beeswax, rosin, and oil—but beware of synthetic versions, which can include additives and paraffin, a wax derived from petroleum (which, as we know, is not too environmentally friendly). You should also know that there are two different kinds of wax: hard and soft. Soft wax is applied in a very thin layer with a muslin strip on top to grab and remove the hair immediately. It’s what you’d typically see for eyebrow and lip waxes in particular, as those areas require a little more precision (you can cut the muslin strip to whatever size you like). Hard wax, on the other hand, cools and hardens on the skin in a thick layer before being removed without the muslin strip, so it doesn’t pull on the skin (and is considered to be a lot less painful). Both hard and soft wax are typically heated to a much higher temperature than sugar paste (which usually remains lukewarm). But the biggest difference between sugaring and waxing? The direction in which the hair is pulled. With sugaring, the paste is applied in the opposite direction of hair growth; when removed, it extracts the hair in the natural direction of hair growth. (Here’s a visual: The esthetician spreads the sugar paste in an upward motion, then pulls it downward to remove the hair). During a wax, the hair is pulled in the opposite direction of the hair follicle—against the grain, if you will. Final point before we begin: You may also want to hold off on hair removal services if you’ve used topical retinoids on the desired area within the last week, as you may end up causing damage to the epidermis. After your first go, it’s an entirely personal matter—one person might be a stickler for sugaring, while another may feel no pain from a high-quality hard wax. But the general key here is maintenance: If you routinely wax or sugar, the pain should subside. “Waxing, if done with premium-quality hard wax, is not painful, especially if maintained every three to four weeks,” says Tincovan. So even if your first experience in the treatment room is a little nightmarish, keep in mind that it should become less painful with each recurring appointment. Just be sure to consult your derm if any extreme pain or redness persists or if you notice a reaction to either formula. No matter which service you choose, the right prep and aftercare are essential: “Much like any other beauty regimen, [they] require regular skin care maintenance,” Claghorn explains.
